Glenwood Springs and Aspen – A Fall Rendezvous

It’s that time of year when I start ruminating about some of my favorite places. If you are interested in making some memories to last a lifetime, I would strongly suggest Glenwood Springs. Many are familiar with its more famous counterpart, Aspen, known for its fresh powder in winter and its dramatic landscapes. However, its lesser-known younger brother, Glenwood Springs is just an hours drive away. In fact, we have always made it our base with respect to lodging, and then traveled back and forth to Aspen from there. Not only is it more cost effective, but you also get to enjoy the scenic drive up to Maroon Bells.

Traveling to Glenwood Springs:

Last fall, for my husband’s birthday, we decided to revisit Glenwood Springs. Anyone who has headed west on I-70 from Denver, knows the spectacular vistas and scenic landscapes that the Colorado high country provides.  Fall is my favorite time of year to make this drive, because the mountains are burning gold as the Aspens, shimmering in the sun, soak in the last reservoirs of warmth before the winter sets in. The travelers of I70 get to witness the remarkable beauty of Lake Dillon as they pass by Fraser right from the comfort of their car.

Eisenhower Tunnel has all the makings of a classic spy thriller (or so I like to imagine). As you pass through the longest tunnel in America built at 11,000 ft, you marvel at the skill it took to have built such a long tunnel at such a high elevation. The 2 mile long tunnel ride is one of my kids’ favorite attractions, too! Coming out on the other side, you are greeted with more scenic vistas, with pockets of gold aspens contrasted with emerald-green conifers. You are about two hours away from Denver at this point, and still another hour to go before you get to Glenwood Springs. It’s interesting to note how the landscape starts to change after you cross Vail and Beaver Creek (more on those on another blog). The high peaks give way to flatter mesas and open plains. But this is a short-lived change because soon you see the familiar rocky peaks as they start towering above you. You are now entering the Glenwood Canyon. Notorious for falling rock and sharp curves, the canyon is breathtaking. Roll down your windows and experience the fresh mountain air, as the temperature drops and you can see the river below crashing into rocks, a constant companion on your road to Glenwood. You get a chuckle as you pass by a road sign inviting you into a town named “No Name”!

History:

As the name suggests, Glenwood Springs is famous for its therapeutic hot springs. In fact, it boasts the largest natural springs in the United States. The city’s history can be traced back to nomadic Ute Indian tribes, and other settlers included gold, silver and coal miners. As with many other cities of Colorado, the arrival of the railroad, gave it a further boost. For more on the history of this beautiful city, visit the official Glenwood Springs page. The Roaring Fork and Grand rivers merge in Glenwood Springs and if you get a chance, take a walk next to it, or sit on a bench at sunset and enjoy the gushing waters of both rivers as they meet and become a giant to be reckoned with. My sons had a blast skipping stones into it, as I watched from a distance with a mother’s worrisome heart lest they became too adventurous and decided to jump in! The huge boulders next to the river was a fun playground for them, and they were happy to go exploring up ahead and cross the bridge at the confluence of the rivers.

Lodging in Glenwood Springs:

The Residence Inn, where we were lodging thanks to my hubby, was a very convenient location for us. The pool is the biggest attraction for my boys, and because of my husband’s status at Marriot, we could avail the next door Marriot Courtyard pool, bigger and more upscale than the Residence Inn one. Traveling tip: create a good relationship with the Front Desk management so that you can call in some upgrades and favors! Azfar was able to upgrade us to a two room suite overlooking the copper red mountains, a stone’s throw away. We were all happy campers, especially the kids who got not only their own king sized bed and TV, but also their own bathroom. Yay!!

Nostalgia associated with Glenwood Springs:

I couldn’t help but reminisce about our previous trips there, the first being on our first wedding anniversary. We had arrived just in time for New Year’s Eve and spent it at the Red Stone Lodge having a wonderful dinner. I had only been a year-old in America at the time, so the sight of couples dancing, clinking glasses and ringing in the new year with such love, fervor, (and some drunkenness) was quite amusing! The fountain outside the lodge had frozen over, and looked like a giant phallic symbol in the middle of nowhere. I still giggle a little when that image comes to mind!  Our second trip to the city, was with the kids for Azfar’s 40th. We gave a literal meaning to “over the hill”!

Haaris was still under a year, and in a stroller while Taimoor, was busy prancing around as you might expect a five-year old to. They had loved exploring the old Historic Colorado Hotel then, with its lovely gardens and gothic architecture, but we were still limited with respect to mobility and independence.

Aspen and Maroon Bells:

This time around, both boys kept each other busy, giving Azfar and I some much needed space. The hour long drive to Aspen went away chatting and listening to music. We parked in downtown Aspen to get on the shuttle that takes visitors up to Maroon Bells. . Tip: choose to sit opposite the big open windows on the shuttle, so you can have an unobstructed view of the Maroon bell mountains as you drive up.

While we waited, the boys browsed the gift shop. As it goes with gift shops, most things are over-priced, but it’s still fun to take home a souvenir. Some cars are allowed into the parking lot of Maroon Bells, depending on the time of year you visit, or if you have babies or elderly passengers. Most of the way from the parking to the lake is paved, but to get to the edge of the lake, you will have to contend with a gravel path, so keep that in mind if you have strollers or wheelchairs. Tip: The temperature dips quite a bit at this elevation, especially as the sun plays hide and seek with the clouds, so make sure you keep jackets handy.

After the customary photo shoots in front of the lake with the magnificent Maroon Bells in the distance, the boys were itching for a hike. The trail leads into the mountains, and you cross the stream that feeds into the lake at multiple points.

We did a short hike through the Aspens, and over the moss-laden boulders of the stream and stopped at a clearing where we could take off our shoes and dip our feet in the water.

I strongly believe it is sacrilegious to visit a body of water, and not dip your toes in it! Well, don’t expect warm waters here. The boys and I challenged each other on who could survive the longest with their feet in the water. I think they might have won! Tip: try to time your visit so you can maximize on hiking. There are some pretty trails that are worth seeing. Bring plenty of water and make a restroom stop before you get to the lake, otherwise there will be a lot of walking back and forth!

Dining in Glenwood Springs:

A trip to Maroon Bells and a day of hiking, must be rewarded with a solid dinner. We strolled the streets of downtown Glenwood. The Inn at the Historic Colorado Hotel was tempting, but too formal for my exhausted boys, so we ended up going towards the historic train station. We found parking easily and crossed some quaint alleyways to get to the main street. The romantic that I am, I have to admit alleyways freak me out because I imagine all kinds of nefarious events happening there. But, these alleyways reminded me of some quaint European bazaar.  Some of the shops opened up on these side streets. There was a hustle and bustle as other visitors were exploring these streets, and the brick walls lit up with string lights, gave the whole area a whimsical feel. We settled on a restaurant that was tucked away between two buildings. It had a small outer courtyard where you could enjoy the meal under the stars with a bubbling fountain close by. All the makings of a great birthday dinner for hubby dearest! We decided to skip dessert there, and instead ordered a chocolate Lave Cake from Chili’s (right next to our hotel) and took it to our room.

A Pleasant Surprise in Glenwood Springs:

For our last day in Glenwood Springs, we had planned to hike up to the Hanging Lake. But, before heading out, I made a quick stop at the community garden that I had spotted from our room. What a delight! Even though it was the end of the growing season, I found purple heirloom tomatoes, peppers and lots of pretty birds hanging around the garden. Such a great sustainable opportunity for a community to gather and do something productive. I met a very friendly lady there who gave me a bowl full of her tomato harvest to enjoy!

Hanging Lake – a Hike to Remember:

Munching on my windfall snacks thanks to the kind lady at the community garden, we made our way to the entrance of the state park that houses the Hanging Lake. Tip: Parking fills up really fast, and there is usually a long line at the gate. The lot is not that big, so plan accordingly and try to get there as soon as the park opens. It will also be cooler then and make your hike a bit more pleasant! If you are not a strong hiker or if you have health risks, be cautioned that this is a fairly strenuous and steep hike. Although it is not long (only a mile), but bear in mind that that mile is entirely a steep, uphill climb traversing big boulders at multiple locations. I realized quickly how out of shape I was, when we reached the ¼ mile marker exhausted and totally out of breath! Despite taking multiple breaks along the way, you start feeling the burn of taking huge steps, sometimes at an almost 90 degree angle. The small stream next to you gives some comfort, and most of the way is sheltered with tall evergreens. Tip: Wear non-skid hiking shoes and keep a stick handy for balance.

Almost there!

You cannot imagine the joy of seeing the last quarter-mile marker! After a precarious climb ( where Azfar coaxed me to turn and smile for the camera while my heart was stuck in my throat looking at the long way down the steep cliff should the stair support break), we reached the summit, and there was the famous Hanging Lake. The emerald-green waters, colored by the wealth of limestone in the bedrock, seemed to be suspended on the cliff.  I have to admit, I was bit underwhelmed. I suppose I was expecting a much bigger lake and more crystal clear waters, but such was not the case. Thanks to a tip I got from a student of mine, we decided to make the effort and climb a bit further to Spouting Rock. This is a mini-waterfall just above Hanging Lake. Where the lake is placid, Spouting Rock is full of energy and momentum. You can even walk behind the waterfall and sit in a big cave. The boys did all kinds of antics here, and honestly I think that they enjoyed this much more than the small lake itself.

Parting thoughts!

As grueling as the hike was uphill, it didn’t take us long to get back to the parking lot. Leaving the park and the canyon, we headed back to Denver with mixed emotions. On the one hand, it was such a blessing to have such beauty in close proximity to wear we live, but on the other there were still activities that were on our checklist unchecked. For example, the Glenwood Caverns, the Adventure park (with a Canyon swing that launches you 1300 ft over the canyon, something which the boys really wanted to do – go figure!) and of course the Springs itself. But all those are an excuse for us to revisit soon. Perhaps after reading this, I have spiked your interest to come visit this lovely state of Colorado, and explore one of its many gems – Glenwood Springs!

If you liked this post, do check out my post on Santa Fe, as well! Do comment below,  like, share and subscribe for more travel posts!